A step-by-step list of proven methods to model convincing N-scale mountains, valleys, and rock cuts with realistic geology, textures, and vegetation.
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The Building of the
Mountain & Valley Railroad.
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mountain.and.valley.railroad@outlook.com
An N-Scale slice of Heaven in the making.
A quick peek.
The Sawmill.
A quick peek at The Sawmill on Mountain and Valley N Scale Railroad showcases an N-scale industrial feature designed for smooth operations and believable realism. Discover how our layout design, trackwork, scenery , and wiring considerations support our sawmill scene that fits naturally into this mountain-and-valley themed railroad.
Cook Cove Lighthouse.
Local lore tells of Captain Cook pulling into these shores to restock his fresh water supplies on his journey toward Sydney Cove in 1770. Legend says local men attempted to bar the landing with spears, but after a few warning musket shots, they vanished into the thick bush—both sides escaping unscathed. A piece of history—or just a tall tale—reimagined in N-Scale.
Fern Gully Station and Yard.
As a small country NSW train station, Fern Gully Station is a quiet hub with limited daily services, sometimes only 4 trains a day. Daily life involves low passenger volume, reliance on Transport for NSW TrainLink, and a focus on maintaining vintage charm amidst infrequent, long-distance travel. Operations & Service: Like many regional stations, they provide limited daily staff (10 am - 4 pm) and amenities. Daily Life & Vibe: The atmosphere is generally quiet and relaxed, reflecting a slower pace of life compared to city hubs. Here it is a nostalgic reminder of 19th-century railway life shown through an N-Scale model of the age of trains.
Contact Me.
- Unit 5 / 62-66 Graham Street, Unanderra, NSW, Australia. 2526.
- +61-0409900708
- mountain.and.valley.railroad@outlook.com
- Contact by Phone Mon-Fri - 06:00-08:00 PM est @ 0409 900 708
I’ll try to keep things about the Layout updated through my Whispers Page each Saturday unless I'm busy looking after my wife, Joy, and if you find our site interesting, I’d genuinely like to hear from you. Regards, Jeff.
About Us.
I live in Unanderra, a lovely suburb of the Greater City of Wollongong, NSW, on Australia’s beautiful east coast, 50 km south of Sydney.
That’s right! We are the place with all those amazing beaches and sunshine — yep, the lucky country down under!
Living happily with my wonderful wife Joy, we were married back in 1966, and yes, we have been best friends for 60+ years. I’ve been retired from teaching seniors how to use computers at our local Community Centre for quite some time now.
During this later time of my life, I’ve been focusing on looking after Joy and my N Scale model railway layout.
Oh! I'd better get going right now, I see the fettlers have finished their coffee break, and it’s time to get back to work, for as I’ve often heard, your layout is never really finished.
Well, I’d better head off like a wombat on a burnt ridge with its tail on fire.
Who!... Before I go, I had better tell you a bit about our Layout.
After years of life happening, family and job, I had worked on the layout from time to time, but it was still not operational [the power had never been fully connected].
The track had been checked before mountains, scenery, sheet foam, plaster strips and casting plaster had been added, but that is where life in this miniature community came to a standstill, this valley went to sleep and the outside world forgot except for the mice and mould and then we decided to moved house...again.
Read more Go To Menu.... Cont,, About Us.
That’s right! We are the place with all those amazing beaches and sunshine — yep, the lucky country down under!
Living happily with my wonderful wife Joy, we were married back in 1966, and yes, we have been best friends for 60+ years. I’ve been retired from teaching seniors how to use computers at our local Community Centre for quite some time now.
During this later time of my life, I’ve been focusing on looking after Joy and my N Scale model railway layout.
Oh! I'd better get going right now, I see the fettlers have finished their coffee break, and it’s time to get back to work, for as I’ve often heard, your layout is never really finished.
Well, I’d better head off like a wombat on a burnt ridge with its tail on fire.
Who!... Before I go, I had better tell you a bit about our Layout.
After years of life happening, family and job, I had worked on the layout from time to time, but it was still not operational [the power had never been fully connected].
The track had been checked before mountains, scenery, sheet foam, plaster strips and casting plaster had been added, but that is where life in this miniature community came to a standstill, this valley went to sleep and the outside world forgot except for the mice and mould and then we decided to moved house...again.
Read more Go To Menu.... Cont,, About Us.
cont.. About us.
Over the years, three house moves later and three rebuilds later, I have learnt a whole heap more about modelling and how to make it a lot better and now that we are in our forever home.....
Well, as someone once said, "I’m b a c k", and the fettlers are working on the New layout even as you read this. Things are happening.
This version of the M&V Rr brings us to the present, so I thought I had better give an update on how my 3+ decades project of an N Gauge layout is progressing.
This version in 2024, of the Mountain and Valley Railroad is still modelled on a fictitious sawmill/village called Fern Gully in a fictitious valley south of Kiama, south of Wollongong NSW, Australia, set in the 1901 ~ 1965 era. It’s a Shelf Layout on an 80cm X 250cm baseboard.
I have needed to go down to a shelf layout as our forever home is a small 55+ two-bedroom unit. It will not be an overnight re-awakening, as looking after the love of my life, my wife Joy, who is in remission with liver cancer from 2012 and who now has dementia in 2024, is my prime concern, but this time it will be finished if a layout can ever be said to be finished.
But, I have got off line [pun] so back to how the build is going on.
Engines do run around the rails, but being older types I think that I will have to get a couple of newer ones as the motors will be of better and stronger make than my old 1993 Steam Tank engine and my Diesel Loco, I think I have printed all of the houses needed for the village of Fern Gully.
Read more Go To Menu.... Just A Bit More.
Well, as someone once said, "I’m b a c k", and the fettlers are working on the New layout even as you read this. Things are happening.
This version of the M&V Rr brings us to the present, so I thought I had better give an update on how my 3+ decades project of an N Gauge layout is progressing.
This version in 2024, of the Mountain and Valley Railroad is still modelled on a fictitious sawmill/village called Fern Gully in a fictitious valley south of Kiama, south of Wollongong NSW, Australia, set in the 1901 ~ 1965 era. It’s a Shelf Layout on an 80cm X 250cm baseboard.
I have needed to go down to a shelf layout as our forever home is a small 55+ two-bedroom unit. It will not be an overnight re-awakening, as looking after the love of my life, my wife Joy, who is in remission with liver cancer from 2012 and who now has dementia in 2024, is my prime concern, but this time it will be finished if a layout can ever be said to be finished.
But, I have got off line [pun] so back to how the build is going on.
Engines do run around the rails, but being older types I think that I will have to get a couple of newer ones as the motors will be of better and stronger make than my old 1993 Steam Tank engine and my Diesel Loco, I think I have printed all of the houses needed for the village of Fern Gully.
Read more Go To Menu.... Just A Bit More.
Just a bit more.
I have started making Gum trees, slowly, and will still need many more and the Saw mill section is about 80% finished, the back ridge running the length of the shelf has been sceniced with cliff rock and trees are going in, there will be [I hope] a diorama here on the ridge of a bush fire using blinking lights under blackened red cellophane, with blackened grass and using vape pumps to waft smoke from the ground. [See more info in my Whispers]
It is now time to turn my attention onto the Plateau and Cutting section at the right end of the layout, this needs to be sceniced with cliff walls, grass and a maybe a logging camp [more 3D printing], also there needs to be three waterfalls and a small ocean cove, then there is the village, lights in the buildings, street lights, sound gizmos to place around the layout for ambiant sound and I am using servos to move the points, so these need to be connected to the control panel. Who was that who said are you finished yet?
So here we are, I'm looking after my wife and working on this site and layout, and you're reading what I have written.
I’ll try to keep you all updated through my whispers Page each Saturday, that’s hoping that you are still a little bit interested.
If you are at all interested, message us, as we are very happy to have you as one of our many, many new friends around the world. All our Regards, Jeff and Joy.
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Our Layout's Mission:
Our mission is to deliver solutions that are effective, scalable, and easy to adopt. We operate with transparency, and accountability, ensuring each project we attempt is managed with care and delivered to the best of our ability. We aim to be a trusted friend you can rely on with the info we give. Jeff and Joy.
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It is now time to turn my attention onto the Plateau and Cutting section at the right end of the layout, this needs to be sceniced with cliff walls, grass and a maybe a logging camp [more 3D printing], also there needs to be three waterfalls and a small ocean cove, then there is the village, lights in the buildings, street lights, sound gizmos to place around the layout for ambiant sound and I am using servos to move the points, so these need to be connected to the control panel. Who was that who said are you finished yet?
So here we are, I'm looking after my wife and working on this site and layout, and you're reading what I have written.
I’ll try to keep you all updated through my whispers Page each Saturday, that’s hoping that you are still a little bit interested.
If you are at all interested, message us, as we are very happy to have you as one of our many, many new friends around the world. All our Regards, Jeff and Joy.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Our Layout's Mission:
Our mission is to deliver solutions that are effective, scalable, and easy to adopt. We operate with transparency, and accountability, ensuring each project we attempt is managed with care and delivered to the best of our ability. We aim to be a trusted friend you can rely on with the info we give. Jeff and Joy.
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Gallery
My Whispers
Adding a dynamic element like smoke to a ridge-top bushfire can take my layout from a static scene to a real showstopper.
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Now I remember, somewhere in my shed, there is an ice cream container of Red/brown Bulldust dirt from outback that my mate Wolf gave me.
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Through the week I got tired of pulling those tree trunks down the hill by hand, so I installed a Drag Line.
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I needed some more houses for my Village. So I had to dust off the old 3D printer. I nearly needed a scraper; the dust was so thick.
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I am not too bad at coding with XHTML, but now they want me to learn HTML5. Groan, I'm getting too old for all this. Oh well, I might as well have a go.
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Ten practical ways to document your N scale layout history, from origin stories and maps to photo logs, roster records, and operating session archives.
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Freebee's Page
Our Freebee's 4 You.
I know that some of you will have seen some of these before, but they will be new to some of you as well.
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To the best of our knowledge, these items are still free for you to use .We have used all of these sites, tools and Tips below, so know that they are worth having a look at. I know that they will save you much time and effort in building a top Model Train Layout.
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This Free PDF file, Precision in Miniature, is a free Article on The Art of N-Scale Architectural Modelling.
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N Scale Track Plans.
@ track-plans.net/n-scale/ A good track plan makes the model railroader happy. But a bad track plan leads to hell. Unfortunately, some model railroaders find it difficult to create a good track plan. They can not find an idea, or they get stuck, and the project comes to a standstill. May www.track-plans.net help a little bit to prevent you from visiting a nasty place!
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N Scale Printable Buildings.
karlovoinfo.com/post/free-n-gauge-printable-buildings and Railroad structures from KraftTrains: Instantly download these files and print them on your own printer. You can print as many buildings as you want and mount them on any surface you choose. Just set your printer to actual size and the highest quality setting.
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N Scale Railroad 3D Printing Files.
The 3D printing files KraftTrains.com are providing are made by third-party open sources from people like Thingiverse.com . I'm asking anyone who uses these files to please give a coffee tip to our third-party 3D model designers so we can maintain this service for the railroading community.
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OpsBuddy.
A free, Google Sheets-based tool designed for model railroad operations, specifically for generating switch lists on layouts or shelf layouts. You can find it here: Click the blue "Use Template" button at the 'Top Right' to save it for yourself.
NOTE: Use this as your template only and change a copy to suit your layout.
Here is a breakdown of what OpsBuddy is:
Purpose: Developed by Matt Forcum, this tool helps modellers manage traffic and industrial switching on layouts where complex, traditional software might be overkill.
Functionality: It creates, manages, and prints switch lists, which dictate which rail cars need to be moved to which industries by a dice roll.
Features: It allows for "controlled randomness," ensuring that operating sessions are varied but still make logical sense for the layout.
Implementation: It runs in Google Sheets, allowing users to define industries, yards, tracks, and destinations.
Cost: It is generally available as a free, template-based tool.
[ You will need MS Office or the free www.openoffice.org/download/Open Office to use it.] It works well, it has good instructions at the bottom of the template, PLEASE READ THEM!
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SCARM Computerized Railroad Designer. @ www.scarm.info
SCARM (Simple Computer Aided Railway Modeler) is free software for designing model train layouts, available for download at www.scarm.info/index.php.
The free version allows full 2D/3D design functionality with a limit of 100 track/scenery items per layout file. It supports numerous track libraries and includes a 3D viewer.
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Woodland Scenics Scale Converter.
Instant scale conversion tool for any modelling scale. Fast, easy and efficient scale model conversion. Quickly convert U.S. Customary and Metric measurements into any scale. Perfect for all scale modellers.
Find it here.
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Railway Texture Sheets.
modelbrickyard.com/ ~ Brick paper.
trimsheets.com/all_assets ~ Trims and Assorted Sheets.
unsplash.com/s/photos/wood-wall ~ Wooden Walls.
Resizing a Texture Sheet for Printing to N Scale. In this example, we are using a texture sheet of rusted roofing iron, but this applies to most N Scale print jobs and printers.
Printing a rusted iron texture sheet for N scale (1:160) on an ink-jet printer requires, first, obtaining a high-resolution, seamless image, and then using precise printer settings to ensure the output scale is accurate and the texture remains crisp.
1. Preparing the Texture Image.
Find a High-Res Image: Search for "seamless rusted iron texture" or "rusted metal texture 300 DPI." High-resolution images are necessary to avoid a pixelated, "blurry" look when printed. Image Dimensions: For N Scale, the texture needs to be very fine. The ideal resolution is at least 300 DPI, though 600 DPI is better for fine detail. Size Correction: If the image is not already sized correctly, import it into a photo editor (like Photoshop, Paint.net, or GIMP) and resize it so that a standard 10ft x 4ft (3m x 1.2m) corrugated sheet measures approximately 19mm x 7.5mm in N Scale. (paperbrick.co.uk)
2. Printer Settings.
Load Quality Paper: Use Matte Photo Paper or heavy presentation paper (120-200gsm). Standard printer paper will bleed, leading to poor, fuzzy results. Open Print Dialogue: Select your printer and go to Properties/Settings. Quality Setting: Set print quality to "Best" or "High". Media Type: Choose "Your Printer Matte" or "Premium Presentation Paper Matte". Disable "Fit to Page": Critically, choose "Actual Size" or set Scaling to 100%.Colour Profile: Select "Vivid" or "High Contrast" to bring out the rust colours. (paperbrick.co.uk)
3. Printing and Finishing.
Print a Test Sheet: Print on regular paper first to check the colour and scale before wasting photo paper.
Let it Dry: Ink-jet ink on photo paper takes time to set; allow it to dry for at least 15 minutes.
Seal the Print: Ink-jet prints are water-based. Spray the sheet with a Matte Clear Acrylic Lacquer or an inkjet fixative to protect the ink and remove any unwanted sheen.
4. Application Tips.
Cutting: Use a very sharp craft knife and a metal ruler for clean, precise edges.
Adhesion: Use a spray adhesive (like 3M Spray Mount) for a smooth, even application without warping.
Enhancement: To create realistic corrugated iron, you can glue the printed paper onto thin aluminium foil and run it through a corrugation tool. (available from model railway suppliers).
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PosteRazor.
PosteRazor is a free, open-source software tool that allows you to create custom model train backdrops by cutting a large photograph into smaller, overlapping "tiles" (A4 or Letter size) that can be printed on a standard home printer and assembled. This process is popular among model railroaders looking to create affordable, custom panoramic backgrounds. Download and execute the Windows installer https://prdownloads.sourceforge.net/posterazor/PosteRazor-1.5.2-Win32-Installer.exe?download , An uninstaller is integrated.
How to Create a Backdrop with PosteRazor
Prepare the Image: Start with a high-resolution photograph of a landscape (mountains, trees, cityscapes). You can use your own photos, buy digital images from websites like Textures.com, or use panoramas.
Edit the Image (Optional): Use photo software like Photoshop or GIMP to remove unwanted objects (roads, people) or adjust the sky to match your layout.
Create Tiles with PosteRazor: Load your image into PosteRazor. Set your printer paper size (e.g., A4 or Letter). Define the desired final size of the poster. Set an overlap size (important for aligning the sheets later). PosteRazor will generate a multi-page PDF document.
Print and Assemble: Print the PDF, trim the white margins, and use a glue stick or spray adhesive (like 3M Spray Mount) to mount the tiles onto your backing material, such as Masonite, foam-core, or directly onto the wall.
Tips for Realistic Backdrops: Mount your print on smooth surfaces like Masonite, hardboard, or foam-core to avoid texture showing through.
Aligning the Images: When placing the sheets, overlap them carefully to match scenery features (like a tree line or horizon) for a seamless look.
Blending Sky: If the sky in the photo doesn't match your layout's existing sky, you can paint the top portion of the backdrop to blend the two together.
Note: For very long layouts, consider creating panoramic scenes in sections and using a commercial printing service for higher quality, rather than printing dozens of home pages.
Protect the Print: Spray the finished backdrop with a clear matte enamel to protect the ink from fading or moisture.
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Train Crew.
Train Crew App. traincrew. There's more to railroading than the throttle. Replicate more of the experience with these tools.
To use these tools, simply visit the website linked here and place it in your favorite's/Desktop, or on whichever device you wish to use [computer, smartphone, tablet, etc.]. This site will generally be up to date with the latest version of the app and the features that the owner (Ed) finds useful for his ops session.
NOTE: Use a copy for each Driver/Guard. or dogsbody who does all the work.
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JMRI. @ www.jmri.org/
Is an open-source suite of tools designed to help hobbyists control their model railroad layouts using a computer. It acts as a bridge between the computer and the layout's hardware (like DCC systems), allowing for control of trains, turnouts, lights, and signals. It is frequently used for automation and to enhance the functionality of a model railroad beyond simple manual control.
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Well, that's all for now. Will there be more to come? Maybe you need to come back sometime to see, and you never, never know if you never, never Go Comeback. [ My comiz to the Aussie TV add ] Jeff.
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Layout Tips.
Question 1: I have limited space. Is N Scale really the best choice?
Answer to question 1.
Absolutely. N scale (1:160) allows you to fit a functioning layout into a 2x4-foot space, or even smaller, and if you have the room, you can build a wonderful scenic layout. You can model extensive scenic, high-speed mainlines or busy urban switching, which would take up three times the room in HO scale.
Absolutely. N scale (1:160) allows you to fit a functioning layout into a 2x4-foot space, or even smaller, and if you have the room, you can build a wonderful scenic layout. You can model extensive scenic, high-speed mainlines or busy urban switching, which would take up three times the room in HO scale.
Question 2: What is the best track system for beginners?
Answer to question 2.
Use specialised Unitrack (like Kato Unitrack) for your first layout. It has a built-in roadbed, locks together, is extremely reliable for power, and prevents derailments caused by uneven track. It has built-in ballast, but that does not stop you from pasting a thin coating of ballast over this.
Use specialised Unitrack (like Kato Unitrack) for your first layout. It has a built-in roadbed, locks together, is extremely reliable for power, and prevents derailments caused by uneven track. It has built-in ballast, but that does not stop you from pasting a thin coating of ballast over this.
Question 3: How do I prevent my trains from constantly derailing?
Answer to question 3.
Focus on precision in track laying and avoid sharp curves. For N Scale, try to keep mainline curves at a minimum radius of 11-12 inches if possible, and ensure track joints are perfectly aligned, especially on turnouts (switches).
Focus on precision in track laying and avoid sharp curves. For N Scale, try to keep mainline curves at a minimum radius of 11-12 inches if possible, and ensure track joints are perfectly aligned, especially on turnouts (switches).
Question 4: How do I clean N Scale track without breaking things?
Answer to question 4.
Keep your track clean to avoid power loss. Use a specialised track-cleaning rubber or a small rag soaked in isopropyl alcohol. You might think about using a cleaner like CRC NF Contact Cleaner, which is an electronic cleaning solvent and leaves no residue. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can scratch the nickel-silver rails or water-based cleaners.
Keep your track clean to avoid power loss. Use a specialised track-cleaning rubber or a small rag soaked in isopropyl alcohol. You might think about using a cleaner like CRC NF Contact Cleaner, which is an electronic cleaning solvent and leaves no residue. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can scratch the nickel-silver rails or water-based cleaners.
Question 5: Should I use DC (Direct Current) or DCC (Digital Command Control)?
Answer to question 5.
Start with DC to learn the basics, but pick a loco that is "DCC-Ready" if you think you’ll upgrade later. DCC allows multiple trains on the same track without complex wiring, which is a game-changer for N-scale operations.
Start with DC to learn the basics, but pick a loco that is "DCC-Ready" if you think you’ll upgrade later. DCC allows multiple trains on the same track without complex wiring, which is a game-changer for N-scale operations.
Question 6: What is the best way to handle coupler issues?
Answer to question 6. You will find it best to standardise your couplers to a high-quality brand, such as Micro-Trains. If couplers stick, use a needle-nose pair of pliers or a thin plastic skewer to gently adjust the knuckle—manual uncoupling is often more reliable than magnet uncoupling in N scale.
Question 7: How can I make my scenery look realistic?
Answer to question 7.
The best way is to use "forced perspective" to make your layout seem larger. Place larger buildings and trees in the foreground and smaller ones in the background to create the illusion of depth. If you have the use of a 3D printer, you can scale down and print some smaller houses for the background hills, etc.
The best way is to use "forced perspective" to make your layout seem larger. Place larger buildings and trees in the foreground and smaller ones in the background to create the illusion of depth. If you have the use of a 3D printer, you can scale down and print some smaller houses for the background hills, etc.
Question 8: How do I handle wiring in such a small space?
Answer to question 8.
Use a 2-inch thick rigid foam insulation board (Building Insulation Foam Board, ask at building sites about rubbish cutoffs, maybe for FREE) for your baseboard instead of plywood. It is easy to cut through and allows you to run wiring underneath in cut-out channels for turnouts and lights easily.
Use a 2-inch thick rigid foam insulation board (Building Insulation Foam Board, ask at building sites about rubbish cutoffs, maybe for FREE) for your baseboard instead of plywood. It is easy to cut through and allows you to run wiring underneath in cut-out channels for turnouts and lights easily.
Question 9: Should I join a club or attend train shows?
Answer to question 9.
Yes, joining a local club is the best way to learn! Experienced members can help you with tricky soldering, decoder installation, and troubleshooting, saving you time and much money.
Yes, joining a local club is the best way to learn! Experienced members can help you with tricky soldering, decoder installation, and troubleshooting, saving you time and much money.
Question 10: Building Your First Layout to a plan.
Answer to question 10.
1. Find a space for your model railway layout. [ If you start small, you can always add on later. ]
2. Choose a theme – be creative! [ Do lots of homework on YouTube and ask lots of questions before starting. ]
3. Plan a design and buy the items you need. [Double-check what you wish to buy, so you do not waste money. ]
4. Build a baseboard. [ There are many ways to do this; do a lot of research before starting to build. ]
5. Select a ballast. [ You do not always have to buy store-bought ballast. ]
6. Lay the track. [ There are many, many free track plans online; check them all before you make up your mind on the one you like best. ]
7. Set up your electronics. [ This can be a minefield, so do your homework well. ]
8. Add your model railway scenery. [ Here you will find YouTube to be your best friend. ]
1. Find a space for your model railway layout. [ If you start small, you can always add on later. ]
2. Choose a theme – be creative! [ Do lots of homework on YouTube and ask lots of questions before starting. ]
3. Plan a design and buy the items you need. [Double-check what you wish to buy, so you do not waste money. ]
4. Build a baseboard. [ There are many ways to do this; do a lot of research before starting to build. ]
5. Select a ballast. [ You do not always have to buy store-bought ballast. ]
6. Lay the track. [ There are many, many free track plans online; check them all before you make up your mind on the one you like best. ]
7. Set up your electronics. [ This can be a minefield, so do your homework well. ]
8. Add your model railway scenery. [ Here you will find YouTube to be your best friend. ]
Question 11: How do I make Dirt Ground cover?
Answer to question 11.
1. I started by collecting dirt from the yard. It's better if you can get the dirt from a bank or a washed-out area where no grass is growing. That way, you don't have to deal with a lot of grassroots. You'll need about 4 cups of dirt.
Be sure that the dirt is completely dry. Otherwise, the dirt will not grind down, but instead just clog your sandpaper. You can spread it out on several sheets of newspaper overnight to dry it out.
You will also need some containers, a spoon, 60-grit sandpaper, and a block of wood to wrap the sandpaper on.
2. Sprinkle about a 1/4 cup of dirt onto a sheet of sandpaper.
Then take a strip from a separate sheet of sandpaper and wrap it around the block of wood. If you don't have a block of wood, anything hard and flat will work.
3. Using a circular motion, grind the dirt until it's about the texture of ground coffee.
While you're doing this, remove any rocks or roots you encounter. Either throw them away or save them for where you need larger ground cover for your model.
4. Pour the ground dirt into a container. It will be sifted later.
When your sandpaper clogs up, use a stiff-bristle brush to clean it off. Then pour this fine dirt into your "fine dirt" container.
If the sandpaper does not want to clean this way, then your dirt is still too wet.
5. To sift the dirt, tilt the container and lightly tap the bottom. The fine dirt will settle to the bottom, and the coarse dirt will come to the top. Scoop this coarse dirt out using a spoon.
Now stir the dirt around with a spoon. Tilt the container and lightly tap it. Scoop out the coarse dirt and place it in the "coarse dirt" container.
After you have repeated this process about six times, the dirt will be sifted pretty well, and you will have a container of "fine dirt" and a container of "coarse dirt". Click on the photo for a larger view.
6. When you're finally finished, you'll have two containers of dirt. One will contain fine dirt, the consistency of flour. The other will contain coarse dirt, the consistency of coffee grounds.
7. The dirt will need to be sealed using cheap hair spray (not your sister's or wife's) and will set up to be very durable once it's dry and finished.
1. I started by collecting dirt from the yard. It's better if you can get the dirt from a bank or a washed-out area where no grass is growing. That way, you don't have to deal with a lot of grassroots. You'll need about 4 cups of dirt.
Be sure that the dirt is completely dry. Otherwise, the dirt will not grind down, but instead just clog your sandpaper. You can spread it out on several sheets of newspaper overnight to dry it out.
You will also need some containers, a spoon, 60-grit sandpaper, and a block of wood to wrap the sandpaper on.
2. Sprinkle about a 1/4 cup of dirt onto a sheet of sandpaper.
Then take a strip from a separate sheet of sandpaper and wrap it around the block of wood. If you don't have a block of wood, anything hard and flat will work.
3. Using a circular motion, grind the dirt until it's about the texture of ground coffee.
While you're doing this, remove any rocks or roots you encounter. Either throw them away or save them for where you need larger ground cover for your model.
4. Pour the ground dirt into a container. It will be sifted later.
When your sandpaper clogs up, use a stiff-bristle brush to clean it off. Then pour this fine dirt into your "fine dirt" container.
If the sandpaper does not want to clean this way, then your dirt is still too wet.
5. To sift the dirt, tilt the container and lightly tap the bottom. The fine dirt will settle to the bottom, and the coarse dirt will come to the top. Scoop this coarse dirt out using a spoon.
Now stir the dirt around with a spoon. Tilt the container and lightly tap it. Scoop out the coarse dirt and place it in the "coarse dirt" container.
After you have repeated this process about six times, the dirt will be sifted pretty well, and you will have a container of "fine dirt" and a container of "coarse dirt". Click on the photo for a larger view.
6. When you're finally finished, you'll have two containers of dirt. One will contain fine dirt, the consistency of flour. The other will contain coarse dirt, the consistency of coffee grounds.
7. The dirt will need to be sealed using cheap hair spray (not your sister's or wife's) and will set up to be very durable once it's dry and finished.
Question 12: Can I Use Real Leaves for Ground Cover?
Answer to question 12.
Modeller Lou Sassi tells how he uses real dead leaves as ground cover for forest floors, lawns, and tree lines in his model railroad scenery. He starts by breaking off stems of dead leaves he has gathered and adds them to a blender, filling it about halfway. Water is added, filling half the blender. The setting on the blender is turned to frappe and blended for a few seconds.
The mix is then poured over a bucket covered with a cotton cloth. The water is left to drain through, and after the cloth is squeezed to strain out most of the water. For further drying, the leaves are emptied from the rag and spread onto a cookie tin. The warm setting on a kitchen oven is used to dry the leaves, turning them with a spatula every so often for about twenty minutes.
After drying, Sassi runs them through a medium kitchen sieve, separating finer leaf parts from coarser materials to use for different applications of the model railroad scenery. The sieve could also be used to apply the leaves directly to the layout. Forest floors need both textures of leaves, while finer material is used for lawns. Ground cover is a great way to bring your model railroad scenery to the next level.
Modeller Lou Sassi tells how he uses real dead leaves as ground cover for forest floors, lawns, and tree lines in his model railroad scenery. He starts by breaking off stems of dead leaves he has gathered and adds them to a blender, filling it about halfway. Water is added, filling half the blender. The setting on the blender is turned to frappe and blended for a few seconds.
The mix is then poured over a bucket covered with a cotton cloth. The water is left to drain through, and after the cloth is squeezed to strain out most of the water. For further drying, the leaves are emptied from the rag and spread onto a cookie tin. The warm setting on a kitchen oven is used to dry the leaves, turning them with a spatula every so often for about twenty minutes.
After drying, Sassi runs them through a medium kitchen sieve, separating finer leaf parts from coarser materials to use for different applications of the model railroad scenery. The sieve could also be used to apply the leaves directly to the layout. Forest floors need both textures of leaves, while finer material is used for lawns. Ground cover is a great way to bring your model railroad scenery to the next level.
Question 13: Wire it right.
Answer to Question 13:
Even if you’re using a basic DC setup, don’t rely on rail joins alone to carry power.
Solder feeder wires (dropper wires) from the track to a power bus beneath the baseboard.
This ensures:
If you’re going DCC (Digital Command Control), spacing your feeders becomes even more important.
Even if you’re using a basic DC setup, don’t rely on rail joins alone to carry power.
Solder feeder wires (dropper wires) from the track to a power bus beneath the baseboard.
This ensures:
- Consistent power
- Fewer dead spots
- Easier fault finding
If you’re going DCC (Digital Command Control), spacing your feeders becomes even more important.
Question 14: Blend Scenery with Trackwork
Answer to Question 14:
Start with the track, but plan where buildings, hills, trees, and roads will go.
Balance your layout visually by:
Start with the track, but plan where buildings, hills, trees, and roads will go.
Balance your layout visually by:
- Varying terrain height
- Mixing open and busy areas
- Adding details like fences, people, and platforms
Question 15: Store and Maintain Your Trains.
Answer to Question 15:
Trains need care just like real ones. Here are some tips:
Trains need care just like real ones. Here are some tips:
- Store them in foam-lined boxes or display cases
- Clean wheels using a cotton bud and isopropyl alcohol
- Lubricate gears sparingly using plastic-safe oil
- Run each train regularly to keep motors in good shape
- If you hear a high-pitched noise, stop and check the gears.
- Keep couplings aligned. Replace damaged ones quickly.
Question 16: Final Tip: Start Small, Build Slowly.
Answer to Question 16:
You don’t need a giant layout on day one. A simple oval with one siding teaches you a lot. Then, expand when you're ready. Make it yours. Add a station from your hometown. Name your loco after your dog.
Model rail is a hobby you grow with. Let’s build something great - one track piece at a time.
You don’t need a giant layout on day one. A simple oval with one siding teaches you a lot. Then, expand when you're ready. Make it yours. Add a station from your hometown. Name your loco after your dog.
Model rail is a hobby you grow with. Let’s build something great - one track piece at a time.
F.A.Q's.
1 - How do I prevent my trains from constantly derailing?
Focus on precision in track laying and avoid sharp curves. For N Scale, try to keep mainline curves at a minimum radius of 11-12 inches if possible, and ensure track joints are perfectly aligned, especially on turnouts (switches).
2 - What is the best track system for beginners?
I would suggest that you use specialised Unitrack (like Kato Unitrack) for your first layout. It has a built-in roadbed, locks together, is extremely reliable for power, and prevents derailments caused by uneven track.
3 - I have limited space. Is N Scale really the best choice?
Absolutely. N scale (1:160) allows you to fit a functioning layout into a 2x4 foot space, or even smaller. You can model extensive scenic, high-speed mainlines or busy urban switching, which would take up three times the room in HO scale.
4 - How do I clean N Scale track without breaking things?
You need to keep track clean to avoid power loss. Use a small rag soaked in CRC NF Contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can scratch the nickel-silver rails.
5 - Should I use DC (Direct Current) or DCC (Digital Command Control)?
Start with DC to learn the basics, but pick a loco that is "DCC-Ready" if you think you’ll upgrade later. DCC allows multiple trains on the same track without complex wiring, which is a game-changer for N-scale operations.
6 - What is the best way to handle coupler issues?
Standardise your couplers to a high-quality brand, such as Micro-Trains. If couplers stick, use a needle-nose pair of pliers or a thin plastic skewer to gently adjust the knuckle—manual uncoupling is often more reliable than magnets in N scale.
7 - How can I make my scenery look realistic?
Use "forced perspective" to make your layout seem larger. Place larger buildings and trees in the foreground and smaller ones in the background to create the illusion of depth. Take your time, don't rush your scenery and do lots of research on YouTube.
8 - How do I handle wiring in such a small space?
Use 2-inch thick rigid foam insulation board (Building Insulation Foam Board, ask at building sites about rubbish cutoffs, maybe FREE) for your baseboard instead of plywood unless you are using the cookie type of layout where you cut sections to be raised. Note that Foam Board is easy to cut through and allows you to run wiring underneath for turnouts and lights easily.
For N scale layouts, the key is to use a “bus and feeder” approach sized for the run length. Run a main power bus under the benchwork (typically 14-16 AWG) and drop short feeders to the rails (typically 22-24 AWG) every 3-6 feet, or more frequently on turnouts and complex trackage. This minimizes voltage drop and improves reliability-especially important for DCC operations.Plan wiring in zones and keep it organized. Divide the layout into power districts or blocks (even if you’re running DCC) so troubleshooting is easier and shorts are contained. Use terminal blocks, labeled wire pairs, and consistent color coding throughout. In tight areas, route wires along the layout’s framing, secure them with cable clips, and leave small service loops so components can be accessed without stressing solder joints.
9 - Should I join a club or attend train shows?
Yes, joining a local club is the best way to learn! Experienced members can help you with tricky soldering, decoder installation, and troubleshooting, saving you time and money.
10 - Should I be building my First Layout to a plan?
1. Yes, find a space for your model railway layout first.
2. Choose a theme – be creative!
3. Plan a design and buy the items you need.
4. Build a baseboard.
5. Lay the track.
6. Select a ballast.
7. Set up your electronics.
8. Add your model railway scenery.
11 - How do I make Dirt Ground cover?
1.-I started by collecting dirt from the yard. It's better if you can get the dirt from a stream bank or a washed-out area, where no grass is growing.
That way, you don't have to deal with a lot of grassroots. You'll need at least an ice cream container of dirt.Be sure that the dirt is completely dry. Otherwise, the dirt will not grind down, but instead just clog your sandpaper. You can spread it out on several sheets of newspaper overnight to dry it out.
You will also need some containers, a spoon, some 60 grit sandpaper and a block of wood to wrap the sandpaper in.
2.-Sprinkle about a 1/4 cup of dirt onto a sheet of sandpaper.
Then take a strip from a separate sheet of sandpaper and wrap it around the block of wood. If you don't have a block of wood, anything hard and flat will work.
3.-Using a circular motion, grind the dirt until it's about the texture of ground coffee.
While you're doing this, remove any rocks or roots that you may run into. Either throw them away or save them for where you need larger ground cover for your model.
4.-Pour the ground dirt into a container. It will be sifted later.
When your sandpaper clogs up, use a stiff bristled brush to clean it off. Then pour this fine dirt into your "fine dirt" container.
If the sandpaper does not want to clean this way, then your dirt is still too wet.
5.-To sift the dirt, tilt the container and lightly tap the bottom. The fine dirt will settle to the bottom, and the coarse dirt will come to the top. Scoop this coarse dirt out using a spoon.
Now stir the dirt around with a spoon. Tilt the container and lightly tap it. Scoop out the coarse dirt and place it in the "coarse dirt" container.
After you have repeated this process about six times, the dirt will be sifted pretty well, and you will have a container of "fine dirt" and a container of "coarse dirt". Click on the photo for a larger view.
6.-When you're finally finished, you'll have two containers of dirt. One will contain fine dirt the consistency of flour. The other will contain coarse dirt, the consistency of coffee grounds.
7.-The dirt will need to be sealed using cheap hair spray (not your sister's or wife's) and will set up to be very durable once it's dry and finished.
12 - Can I Use Leaves for Ground Cover?
Modeller Lou Sassi tells how he uses real dead leaves as ground cover for forest floors, lawns, and tree lines in his model railroad scenery. He starts by breaking off stems of dead leaves he has gathered and adds them to a blender, filling it about halfway. Water is added, filling half the blender. The setting on the blender is turned to frappe and blended for a few seconds.
The mix is then poured over the top of a bucket covered with a cotton cloth. The water is left to drain through, and after the cloth is squeezed to strain out most of the water. For further drying, the leaves are emptied from the rag and spread onto a cookie tin. The warm setting on a kitchen oven is used to dry the leaves, turning them with a spatula every so often for about twenty minutes.
After drying, Lou Sassi runs them through a medium kitchen sieve, separating finer leaf parts from coarser materials to use for different applications of the model railroad scenery. The sieve could also be used to apply the leaves directly to the layout. Forest floors need both textures of leaves, while finer material is used for lawns. Ground cover is a great way to bring your model railroad scenery to the next level.
The Ethos that our Layout & Life is built around.
"As iron sharpens iron, so one person sharpens another."
[ Proverbs 27:17 ] and
"In everything, therefore, treat people the same way you want them to treat you, for this is the Law and the Prophets."
[ Matthew 7:12 ]
[ Proverbs 27:17 ] and
"In everything, therefore, treat people the same way you want them to treat you, for this is the Law and the Prophets."
[ Matthew 7:12 ]
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Mountain and Valley Railroad's Site Privacy Policy.
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